Taiwan is one of the first stops into Asia when arriving from the west coast of the United States, as I did. The flight with EVA Air took over 12 hours. It went smoothly down to Taipei, though those seats were not the most comfortable. Happy to arrive, even though it was 5am 😦

Early morning wandering the streets, searching for breakfast. Led me to an old lady street seller with a breakfast for champions. I’m not exactly sure champions of what, but ‘Dan Bing’ is a thing, apparently!! It’s an egg crepe.
It did the job and got me ready to explore. No comfy hotel room for another 7-8 hours, time to fill.

Guru Walking Tours

I really believe in Guru Walking Tours; I’ve used them many times. What are Guru Walks? They’re local guides who offer ‘free walking tours’ and earn tips. They are popular in many cities, but I think Guru Walks does it especially well. I knew I needed to learn more about Taiwan when I got here, and Guru Walks was the perfect choice. James was my guide in Taipei, and he explained the history of Taiwan, how it has developed, and where it stands today. Learning about history is essential for understanding a new country. Taiwan’s history is deeply intertwined with China, Japan, Netherlands and the United States.

Understanding different cultures and histories helps us appreciate their diverse views and understand our own identity. Recognizing the differences and similarities in experiences, life struggles, is important. Taiwan was under martial law for 38 years is only surpassed by Syria’s in duration. Martial law being a temporary replacement of civilian government … how can the white terror of 38 years under martial law be ‘temporary’.

The 228 Peace Park memorial is dedicated to the victims of the 28th February 1947 and the subsequent White Terror.

Learning about this history brings countries to life. I shared this walking tour with a fun group of an eclectic mix of nationalities, enjoying the stories of our excellent stand up comic guide, James.

Effin and Jeffin

In England, we have a phrase ‘Effin and Jeffin’, which basically means swearing a lot. When I planned my visit to Taiwan, a day trip to Shifen and Jiufen was on many recommendation lists. As I was organizing this trip, I forgot the names of those towns and simply labeled the day trip as ‘Effin & Jeffin’!

The ‘Effin & Jeffiin’ tour is not that simple – Taipei – Ruifang – Shifen – Ruifang – Juifen – Ruifang – Taipei
it’s 30 miles out in the countryside to get to Shifen, on what was a glorious sunny day. The change of trains in Ruifang mean’t a short wait. That wait was filled by a group of Hong Kong school kids singing songs in word perfect English as a sort of school choir conducted by the teacher. I was later to see them do that impromptu singing at the Shifen waterfall.

The first stage was to get out of Taipei on the train, getting from central station to Ruifang Station was only the first step on a crazy day adventure. A change of trains, and next on to Shifen on the Pingxi line. Shifen is glorious, a bit touristy round the edges with its wishing lanterns, but we will forgive them for that, maybe.

The Shifen waterfall is a little bit of walk to get to … I managed an Avison fall on the way. Would not be a travel trip without of travel trip!!

Later in the day, as part of my ‘Effin & Jeffin’ adventure, I made my way to Juifen. Getting there can be a little overwhelming. Bus loads of tourists come in on the hour, every hour. I was one. Figuring out how to get from Ruifang railway station to the winding hillside pedestrian stepped streets that make this town somewhat unique.

The sites, sounds and smells as you wander up and down this hillside town take some getting used to. In fact, there is no getting used to, the hillsidedness, the steps, the tea houses, it’s all a bit out of madness. This place is in the middle of nowhere on the map, but it is somewhere to find.

And then there is ‘Keelung Peak’. It’s a 1.1 mile stone staircase. Whatever possessed me to take on the challenge of trying to get to the top. There are 1475 steps. They are uneven, steep and an accident waiting to happen. What could go wrong?

It was difficult, incredibly difficult. I thought about turning around and not getting to the top on several occasions, but I carried on regardless. I stopped on number of times. Basically, I was assessing not only the strenuous climb, but why did I start this? This is when some young dude walks past me, carrying a bicycle on his back. Don’t you just hate some people :). I’m not sure how or why, but I did not have the breath to ask.

I made it to the top! Though I have no idea how.

I couldn’t bear to fight the crowds and try to catch a bus back to Ruifang train station. Apart from anything else my feet were ready to collapse after the Keelung Peak hike. The tranquility of a taxi got me back to the train and a small matter of making my way back to Taipei Main Station. What a fun day!

A New Dawn, A New Day

For day three in Taiwan I made a list of places to go. I wasn’t sure about the list and it was a bit scrambled, but I had the Taipei Easy Card, so getting around was EASY. I was sticking the there red line on the MRT. MRT is Mass Rapid Transit. During my time in Taiwan I have gone north to south on the Tamsui-Xinyi red line, every station.

At the end of that line is station number R28, Red 28. Tamsui is fantastic. I had little to no expectations, but its a gem of a find on the end of the track line.

I made my way back along the red line there was a recommended temple. There 15,000 temples in Taipei, so it is difficult to narrow it down, but narrow it down I did, to the Dalongdong Baoan Temple. It is amazing.

I headed back to my trusty friend the Taipei MRT take to be back to Taipei Main Station for the umpteenth time during my few days here. This one last venture was leading me to American Street. Located in the vibrant Ximending district is the compact alley that is famous for its street art. Despite wandering the area a few times I had managed not to find my way to American Street, but this time I did. A wondrous find.

And then there is Taipei at night…