The Old & New of Krakow

Kraków is a curious mix of the old and the new, rich with the traditional character of pre-communist, medieval Polish life, but buzzing with energy and youth, and walking around the place exudes that genuine mystery.

Today was a long walking day in Krakow, first and foremost this is an interesting & enjoyable place to visit, but I wanted to discover a little more today, wander new tracks and further away from the main tourist square. New roads led me  venture to Wilsa Krakow football stadium, Stadion Miejski w Krakowie.  I decided to get a souvenir, but also ask if a stadium tour might be a possibility.  I was abruptly told ‘stadium is closed’.  However, from past experience I have always found that stadiums are never quite closed, and have security weak spots.   So, I casually wandered the entire outskirts of the stadium, passed the tired security guard and found the south east corner with an open gate.  In I went, a few minutes later with photo opportunity taken I had pictures of the inside stadium and pitch, and I was off.  Mission accomplished.

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From there I headed to the Jewish Quarter in Kazimierz, another area of importance for Krakow.  It was the centre of Jewish life in Krakow before it was destroyed in World War II.  It provided the setting for Schindlers List in 1993 which proved the catalyst for the rebirth of the area as it became a revitalised bohemian neighbourhood packed with history.

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That wander to get to the Jewish Quarter took in a beautiful walk along the Wisla river in the autumn sunshine; a nice park and a photographer’s paradise, which made the late morning wander across town all the more enjoyable.

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Wisla River and Wawel Castle

One of the biggest bonuses of going on the ‘free walking tour’ that I did yesterday, is that you are able to get really good tips about where to eat.  In Krakow it would be so easy to get a bite to eat in the town square, as I did on my first day.  When it comes to people watching this cannot be beat, but when it comes to getting a taste of Polish food, there are much better options to be found.

105389Kuchnia u Doroty was that restaurant that I found after a long trek, but it was well worth the extra steps.  As I went into the restaurant I noticed it was full of local people, I knew I had found a good place.  Finding new food, something different, or a different twist on something that you already know, it is part of why visiting somewhere new.  I had potato pancakes and braised beets, which was an intriguing combination, but right up my street.  It was yummy, and the bill, well, they were almost giving it away.  Major thumbs up.

More footsteps on the pavement to work off those potato pancakes.  I found myself at the pinball museum, which is kind of a bit random.  I have no idea why this even exists, or why there is such a thing, but having heard about it I thought it might be worthwhile to go check it out.  It was fun, for 1-2 hours I played so many different variations of pinball it got kind of ridiculous, there were machines over four decades, and it was fascinating to see how machines on the same theme have evolved.  They were enjoyable (and frustrating) to play, but all round a nice diversion to the day.

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A late evening walk to capture Krakow at night added more steps to my day, in fact the day ended with me close to 35,000 steps in one day, that’s around 17 miles.  Taking the path less travelled, is not only part of learning about a new city, of breathing it in, but it is also one of the most enjoyable things I find in life.  I must find time to do it more.

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St Mary’s Bascilica, Krakow

 

 

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